Clos Cibonne

This is a very special Grand Cru Classé property which in some ways defines Provence while also marking out the differences. Wonderful Rosés to age, and the use of the indigenous local variety Tibouren.

The 24 hectare property (with 15ha under vine) is run by the Roux and Deforges family. The immensely characteristic Claude Deforges, with his wife Brigitte, run the estate while the wine has been made, since 2012, by their son Olivier, the fifth generation, who trained as a winemaker in Burgundy, the Rhône and Australia.

Tibouren is an ancient local variety, although its origins are probably from Rome (it may be named after the river Tiber, and there are some writings which suggest Julius Caesar enjoyed the wines of “Tibur”).
Tibouren, which still also grows in Liguria as Rosesse, yields exotic floral, red berry and citrus aromas. It is difficult to grow and a little capricious, but when it is right it adds significantly to any wine which includes it. For this reason it is highly regarded as a component by most Provence producers. Here at Clos Cibonne, however, Tibouren is the star attraction and they make rosé and red wine almost entirely from it. (Côtes de Provence red and rosé has to be a blend – at Cibonne there is 10% Grenache added to the 90% Tibouren, which allows for the wines to carry the grape variety name on the label, which they proudly do.)

The label is exquisite, and has remained unchanged for decades. Thank heavens it was never ‘bought up to date’ and it now encapsulates the property, variety and its history.

A tasting at Clos Cibonne is one that no wine lover will ever forget. Normally, as well as the current release an old Rosé will be offered. Showing that Rosé certainly has the capacity to age magnificently in the right hands, the flavours of honey, straw and spices of age augment the fruit in a revelatory way. Clos Cibonne bottle their rosé in green glass to allow for ageing and not to keep it for at least a few years from release would be a criminal waste.