Grattamacco

Despite being established after Sassicaia (in 1977) Grattamacco is a pioneer in its own right. Besides planting Bordeaux varieties, Piermario Meletti Cavallari retained some Sangiovese, uncommon in general Bolgheri identity. The estate was the first to bottle a Bolgheri Rosso in 1994, writ large on the label to introduce world to the area. He introduced Vermentino to the region shortly after. Partly fermented and aged in wood, it is still one of the estate’s gems. Grattamacco was also the first certified organic estate in zone – as of 1997.

It was purchased by Claudio Tipa in 2002 (his second estate after ColleMassari in Montecucco, with Poggio di Sotto in Montalcino added afterwards). Along with his winemaker, Luca Marrone, they continued the innovative spirit, planting bush vines – or alberelli to respond to hot, arid conditions. Other estates have since followed suit. The IGT L’Alberello bottling is a unique field blend, co-ferment of Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc.

In the winery, Marrone relies more on intuition than technology. His wines are structured though fine rather than muscular, and judiciously oaked. Chalky, textured, salty-edged and full of Mediterranean herbs, they speak eloquently of place.