Montenidoli

Translating as ‘hill of birds’ nests’, Montenidoli has served as a nurturing environment since Elisabetta Fagiuoli and Sergio Muratori acquired the abandoned property in 1965. The couple moved from Genoa to helped troubled children – not produce wine.

Fagiuoli took to restoring the neglected vines which had been planted after the second world war. Her first vintage was 1971. She sought the advice of experts but has always done things her way.

Like many of her peers, Fagiuoli makes three Vernaccia di San Gimignano. What stands out at Montenidoli though, is that the distinction between each is truly defined. Fiore is a beautifully transparent ‘naked’ expression made from free run juice with refinement on the lees in stainless steel. Tradizionale is a more rustic version that references the past with skin contact and ageing concrete vats. Finally, Carato is fermented and aged in barriques – mostly used. It is a sumptuous tip of the hat to Burgundy.

The Sangiovese-based reds are also worth seeking out and in fact were made long before whites were introduced in 1984. The Triassico label from a 2ha plot of bush vines on iron rich soil is bottled in magnum only. Proceeds go to a special foundation set up when Muratori died in 2012 which houses seniors together with youth in rural surroundings for the mutual benefit of both.

Behind her disarming smile, Fagiuoli is a force. Pushing 90, she is also as sharp as a tack. Until 2024, she continued to be involved in winemaking and in 2025, was spied directing reception of the harvested grapes.