Domaine Labet

Based in the middle of Rotalier, Alain Labet, with his late wife Josie, and from as early as the 1990s with his talented winemaker son Julien, was the first in the southern Jura area to make several terroir selections of topped-up Chardonnay. With evocative parcel names like Les Varrons or Chalasses (both later made famous by close-neighbour Ganevat) they always impressed with how well they expressed the terroir.
As Julien gradually took over, and was joined by his siblings Charlene and Romain, they converted their 14ha vineyards to organics and took the route of making resolutely natural wines wtih no added sulfites since 2015. From being an estate that lurked in the shadows, these wines are now among the most sought-after from the Jura. They pride themselves on explaining the geology of each parcel at tastings, and now on back-labels too.
Whereas the Chardonnays remain the stars, made in a highly reductive style, and there is always a beautiful Savagnin ouillé (topped-up), there are also exemplary oxidative whites. Reds are featherlight, most in demand is the unusual Métis, a Vin de France blend which includes a local strain of Gamay and old hybrids. Crémant is a delight and proof that this range is not as wild as they might be.