On the surface, promoting Beaujolais’s best vineyards to premiers crus might appear entirely beneficial for the region. But the situation is more complex than it looks, says Beaujolais expert Natasha Hughes MW.

Over the past 20 years, the restoration of Beaujolais has been one of the great success stories in French wine. For decades it was best known for simple Beaujolais Nouveau, rushed out for consumption on the third Thursday of November every year, but the hullaballoo around this marketing stunt is now dissipating as the potential quality of its cru wines draws the spotlight.