Ferran Adrià’s legendary restaurant El Bulli defined modernist cuisine. The restaurant had an undeniable influence on haute cuisine trends both in Spain and across the globe. For 13 years, its wine programme was led by sommelier Ferran Centelles. Ferran continues to work with Adrià at the elBullifoundation, a creativity centre of culinary and wine-focused scholarship that was created in 2011 after the restaurant’s closure.  

What happens when the very act of tasting wine no longer keeps pace with the wines themselves? What if the way we teach tasting is no longer fit for purpose—not for students, not for wines and certainly not for the future of wine culture?

This article explores themes connected to the panel discussion led by WSG at Wine Paris on February 9, 2026. Wine is one of the most culturally rich, emotionally resonant traditions in the world. It connects people and place like few earthly things can. Yet the wine industry finds itself on the edge of a precipice. Declining consumption, shifting demographics, climate chaos and fierce competition from spirits and non-alcoholic alternatives all call wine's future into question. External forces aren't the only culprits. Within the industry, wine education itself has unwittingly become part of the problem—actively contributing to the disconnect between wine and the people who might love it.