This article has been published in partnership with World of Fine Wine and Wine Scholar Guild.  A shocking red wine from the Jerezano new wave. Andrew Jefford tastes 2020 Annius Atlántida Vino de la Tierra de Cádiz.

Many wine regions in Europe like to reference their long history, typically dating the arrival of the first vineyards back to the time of the Roman legions. Viticulture in Jerez may well have an even longer history than that; it’s entirely possible that the first vines in the region were planted by the Phoenicians around the time they established the nearby port city of Cadiz in 1,110BC.

Of all the styles of sherry, palo cortado is the most ambiguous, and indeed, deliberately so. The Consejo Regulador, sherry’s governing body, defines every other style of sherry in relatively specific detail, yet when it comes to palo cortado, the rules describe it simply as a wine combining the delicacy and aromatic refinement of an amontillado with the structure and body of an oloroso. In addition, nothing is mentioned about its method of production, which further allows the definition of palo cortado to be left open to interpretation.